Setting up cuts with the dovetail jigOn this piece of wood, I have room for all four of the 3 cm wide spacer blocks. So I'll use those four spacers to space four dovetails 3 cm apart.
I'm marking the edges of one of the spacers. I'll center the first dovetail between these two marks.
Cutting the pinsCutting the first gap between the pins, with three spacers between the fence and the board. Because I started on the left side, I needed to start with the spacers behind the fence. In retrospect, it would have been more intuitive to start on the right side of my board and then add spacers to cut the other slots.
As it was, I actually cut the first slot and then realized I needed to remove spacers, not add them, so I had to reposition the fence, add three spacers, and then push the fence up against the spacers. Oops!
Cutting the tailsNow switching over to the tails jig, and tilting the saw by the right angle (in this case, 10 degrees)
I can now line up the saw blade to cut on one side of the tail. Be sure to get the blade on the right side of the line, so the blade cuts in the waste, not the part you want to keep.
I had also cut some test pieces (this was the first time using this jig). Here I'm placing a single tailed test piece onto the jig, hooking it onto the alignment pin, and pushing it to my right (left, as seen in the photo). I then move the backing board of the jig until the blade lines up with my pencil mark.
As you can see, this jig allows for dovetail joints considerably larger than is possible with a router jig.
This joint is larger than the largest dovetail bit that Lee Valley Tools sells.
I later used that test piece to make an impossible looking dovetail joint