Homemade table saw: Angle lock and table saw inserts(Back to part 1)
From my previous tests, I found that the blade moved slightly side to side as I changed the depth setting. Checking it over, I found I had one of the holes that the saw unit pivots on about 2 mm off. I had previously compensated for that by shimming the pivot mounts, but the slightly crooked tilt axis resulted in a slight side-to-side movement during plunging. So time to fix that.
I decided to make some sort of knob attached to the tilting frame that pinches against a curved slot.
It turned out, my slot covered a bit more than 45 degrees, and the end of the piece gets a bit in the way of the depth adjustment mechanism, so I shortened it a little.
But then I left that switch on the floor, where I could turn it on accidentally with my feet, so I still ended up unplugging the saw when working on it.
Table saw insertsWith where the blade comes through the table at 45 degrees and 90 degrees, I would need a VERY wide slot to accommodate all the angles.
A solution would be to build trunnions, like on my bandsaw, instead of using hinges for the angle adjustment. But I wanted to keep this saw as something relatively easy to build. Besides, this will never be a really good table saw.
This time, I used one of my fixed routers with a dust collection hose attached. Much much nicer to work with than a plunge router, hardly any dust goes flying.
The circular saw was designed for a 7 1/4" blade, but with the retracting blade guard removed, a 8 1/4" blade will just barely fit inside the outer guard.
With the 8 1/4" (210 mm) blade, I can get a depth of cut of 60 mm, or 2 3/8". That's about the same depth that the circular saw could do originally. So the larger blade just makes up for depth that I lost because of the thick plywood table.
I used one of my long reach C-clamps to attach a temporary fence and made another test rip cut.
But I had to mount the fence slightly off from perpendicular to the edge of the table. So more checking of the alignment. The saw turned out to be at a slight angle in the mount. I cut the opening for the back of the motor a bit wider and, using two dowels wedged in, locked it at the new position.
This is the sort of thing that would be very difficult to make without a tilting arbour table saw.
Next: Table saw rip fence
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