Pantorouter plunge controls and router springs
Making the plunge leverHaving built the pantograph, plunge sled with drawer glides, table, and template holder, the pantorouter XL is basically operational, but it's not very convenient to use.
I just mark the holes off the 1:1 drawing, then drill and countersink them on the drill press.
The hinge with the link could be a piece of steel rod or a wood screw. I'm using part of a knock-down fastener screw. I like the large head on it, and the smooth shank will make a nice pivot.
Making the plunge depth stopsThe depth stop mechanism is made from four blocks of wood. I cut the basic rectangular shape of these on the table saw, and here I'm checking the size against the 1:1 drawings.
The holes get a slot cut into them to allow the block to clamp down on the shaft. Also, a few other bits are cut off to shape the blocks
This is how the plunge stops fit on the pantorouter. The block at left secures the shaft to the sled. The large block at right is screwed to the table, and the two small blocks clamp onto the shaft to provide depth stops.
Unfortunately, the knobs have an M6 thread, and the closest I have is 1/4" T-nuts. The T-nut almost fits. So I ran an M6 thread tap into the T-nuts, and now the metric threaded knob screws in just fine.
The small blocks are then clamped to the shaft to serve as stops.
Router weight compensationGravity always pulls the router down. Though the operating lever provides a 2:1 advantage, lifting up the router by the operating lever is still tiring over time. To help lift the router up, I'll be adding springs that push the two pantograph links up, which in turn lifts up the router.
The other cam just slides onto the shafts of the pantograph. The holes in the cams are slightly arger than the shafts to let them slide on easily.
The springs I bought at Lowes are slightly too long, so instead of using the loops at the end, I'm bending the last loop to the side on the vise, using a piece of wood and a hammer, then cutting off the original end loop.
With the link pivoted all the way to the other side, the spring has quite a bit of stretch to it. Imagine the long link held in a fixed position, this spring will effectively pull the short link to lift up the router.
The other spring cam is on the front. The spring needs to go under the shaft for the plunge depth stops. I hadn't drawn how the spring attaches on that end yet, and the spring is long enough that it needs to go under this shaft.
I had to carve out a notch to make room for it. I moved the shaft for the depth stops a bit higher in the plans, so you shouldn't need to carve a notch to make room for the spring.
The springs aren't strong enough to counteract the full weight of the router. Even though it's a smaller router, it probably isn't any lighter than the motor-only unit of a full-sized interchangeable base router that I used on my other machine.
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