20" bandsaw sawmilling experiment
It was my plan all along to try to use my new 20" bandsaw as a sawmill. So back in January, I cut down an ash tree for a log. I wanted to get rid of this tree all along because it was shading an apple tree. Also, the ash borer would get it in a few years anyway.
Special sawhorsesThe idea was to put the bandsaw on a dolly, and push it along a log resting on some sawhorses. I needed a pair just the right height.
I built sawhorses similar to these ones, but making full use of the machines in my shop, which made the work much faster.
First I made a few cuts in the sides of some 2x4s (two at a time) for a big dado to accept the legs. I cut away just enough to make it easy to remove the rest with the bandsaw later.
I also chamfered the bottom ends of the legs. Otherwise, they have a tendency to break out splinters when dragged across the floor.
I made a spacer to get the legs the right distance apart as I nailed on the gussets. I first attached the gussets with a few brad nails to fix them in place then added bigger nails to make them sturdy.
Next I used my big tractor to move the log.
I backed the tractor into my big garage workshop, assembled the sawhorses under the log, lowered the log, then backed the tractor into the back corner where I normally park it.
Modifying the bandsawI still needed to make some changes to the bandsaw to prepare it for the milling.
Mainly, I wanted to move the lower blade guide further down to give me more vertical height. Here I'm unscrewing the blade guides from the lower trunnion beam.
Next I removed the trunnion beam as well.
This is similar to the arrangement I have on my 14" bandsaw/sawmill
I installed two threaded inserts in the frame so I could screw the blade guide directly to it. I previously just tapped holes into the trunnion beam for mounting the blade guides, but this being soft wood and end grain, there would not be enough hold for a machine screw in the wood. I also put some construction adhesive in the holes before installing the inserts, just for good measure.
I also made a metal cover for the frame. The plan was to push the bandsaw along a board to guide it straight, and I didn't want to scuff up the paint.
Milling the logRolling the log into position.
I also added two small boards of hardwood to extend the end of the sawhorse over the blade guides, without adding too much height.
But before I got to the end of the cut, the bandsaw got caught up on the second sawhorse. My hardwood support was sticking too far forward. I expected the saw to just cut off the part that was too long, but the board ended up hitting the guard I just added.
First cut successful. Very straight, though not the smoothest because of the inconsistent feed rate.
This cut was less deep than the first one and was a bit easier.
I was now ready to cut some usable boards. I just needed to move the log forward by whatever amount I wanted to cut off next. I made a spacer to help me position the log with a consistent overhang from the previous cut.
I still screwed the log down just a bit for each cut, just to make sure it wouldn't slide around.
Cutting went fairly well. The 3/4 hp motor that I still had on the bandsaw was way under-powered and I stalled it a few times. Fortunately, I was quick enough to turn the power off every time before any damage occurred or the breaker popped.
Getting ready to cut the last board. What's left of the log just barely has enough support on the edges of the sawhorses to hold it in place. I also added a brace again to keep this part from tipping off.
The capacity of this set-up is limited by the height of the saw to logs of maybe 45 cm (18") in diameter. A bigger limitation is the need to be able turn and position the logs by hand. I don't have a firm edge to rotate the log against, so I can't just flip it over with a canthook.
But I'm pleased with how it works. Much better than chainsaw milling, and also better than my 14" bandsaw / sawmill. Being able to use a proper sawmill blade makes a big difference. Sawmill blades can't be used on 14" wheels. The tight bend required for 14" (35 cm) diameter wheels will cause the thicker blades to fail prematurely from metal fatigue.