Pantorouter template mount
The biggest annoyance with setting up my old pantorouter is that whenever I need to adjust the template vertically, I have to completely loosen it, at which point I need to make sure it stays horizontal. The metal pantorouter solves this by having a template mount that slides vertically. I came up with a similar system for my new pantorouter.
I didn't print out any drawings this time, instead just browsed the plans on my tablet computer in the shop.
The two vertical pieces on the sides need to have a notch cut out that is the thickness of the plywood that goes on the back. I cut this as far as I could on the table saw without over cutting (because the saw blade doesn't cut vertically), then finished the cut on the bandsaw.
I then rough cut the piece that joins the two vertical pieces on the bandsaw. I like to cut these odd shapes straight out of a big piece of plywood because that really cuts down on odd scraps of plywood. A 20" bandsaw really helps.
The piece of plywood needs two slots cut into it. I made a shallow plunge cut on either side of this slot with the table saw, mostly to mark and score the lines accurately to avoid tear-out with the jigsaw.
The posts also get slots cut into them. These slots would best be cut with a slot mortiser or a pantorouter, but I don't want this build to be dependent on machines that you may or may not (yet) have.
I drilled a series of holes with a brad point bit.
But then switched to a 3/8" spiral router bit, with the workpiece clamped in a drill press vise to drill many closely spaced overlapping holes to finish cutting out this slot. I had to work from both sides to make the slot go all the way through. If you don't have a 3/8" (10 mm) spiral router bit, you should get one, because they are great for making mortises with a pantorouter.
Caution: Do not attempt to drill with a spiral router bit unless you are using a drill press with the workpiece rigidly clamped down.
I have to make sure the two vertical posts are parallel to each other. I made a spacer that puts them at the right distance to each other, then cut that spacer down the middle lengthwise to make two identical spacers, which I used to make sure the posts are parallel while gluing it up.
While the glue was drying on that, I glued some pieces of wood into the bottom end of the slots, so I could then glue on more pieces of wood to the bottom of the template holder to give it a wider base.
I originally planned to glue the other strip to the template holder as well, but then realized, with so little play in the slots, if there is any wood movement in the template holder, this would cause the strips of wood to bind in the slots. So instead I'm screwing the other one on. Here I'm transferring the screw hole locations by pushing a screw into the holes I drilled into the template holder.
You can also see extra blocks clamped to the bottom of the template holder to give it a wider base.
I drilled the pilot holes in the strip of wood fairly small to get more thread engagement with the wood screws, but that means I'm more likely to split the wood when I put the screws in. So I ground one side of the tip one of the screws flat on my belt grinder and screwed it into every hole to pre-cut the threads in the wood.
Installing the mounting bolts. These lock the vertical position of the template holder and also keep it pulled into the slots. I'm using a threaded plastic knob, but later swapped that for a homemade threaded knob.
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