Building the table and template holder
Building the tableHaving built the pantograph and sliding base, I need something to hold the stock in front of the router and something to hold a template behind the pantograph.
I'll start with the table on the front. The design for this is almost the same as in my previous pantorouter. I prepared by gluing some pieces of wood together to get the full height needed for the table supports.
Instead of using a 1:1 printout of the whole sides, I made separate 1:1 printouts of just the joints for this table (I'll include those in the plans). I paste these on the joined edges of the table pieces.
The slots and fingers are 13 mm wide, so I made two 26 mm wide blocks. Inserting one of these between the stop block and the work piece allows me to make the next cut without having to line things up by eye. Then another block inserted, and the next cut made.
I use the same method to make a cut on the other side of each slot, then hog out the material for the rest of the slot by making a series of cuts with the saw blade, just positioning the workpiece freehand for each cut.
Having cut the joints, the fingers were too wide to fit, so I positioned the stop block to shave half a millimeter off each finger, again using the spacers to position for each finger.
Gluing it together. No need to clamp these joints, but I used one of my clamping squares to make sure the first joint stayed square as I glued the second one.
The table top has a grid of holes in it for mounting the clamp onto. I could have used a 1:1 template to mark these, but drawing the grid was easy enough and saved me the trouble of peeling the paper off afterwards.
I'm using an awl, tapped with a hammer, to put a divot on each grid intersection...
The table itself is screwed onto the base from the bottom, though I took no photos of that.
Building the template holderNext comes the template holder (highlighted in orange) which sits behind the pantograph.
I initially designed these joints to be cut with my screw advance box joint jig, but I wanted this machine to be easier to build for people who don't have my fancy jigs. So I had the idea of using the same method that I used to cut the joints for the table. But to make it easier, I changed the fingers to be 8 mm wide from 6 mm.
I made some spacer blocks, one 16 mm wide (one finger + one space) and two 32 mm wide (two fingers and two spaces).
I knew the first slot leaves an 8 mm finger, so with the spacers in place, I used my calipers to position the stop block so that there were 8 mm between the last block and the blade. I didn't bother pasting the templates onto the wood.
Cutting the fingers. First cutting the horizontal pieces, cutting the slots in each end. Then moving the block so that the next cut is the other side of each 8 mm wide slot, then placing it freehand to make two more cuts in between to hog out the 8 mm widths.
Except I made a mistake. When I cut the joints on the verticals pieces, after having cut the horizontal ones, I didn't offset them correctly. I should have started with the first 8 mm from the edge cut away. So I had to make these pieces a second time.
The vertical pieces are narrower at the top, but I hadn't cut this away initially.
I also need to cut some slots into the template holder. I'd normally cut these with my slot mortiser, but again, I have to make sure the machine is buildable without all my jigs. So I figured I should cut this out with a plunge router.
To make the work a bit easier, I hogged out some of the material by drilling a series of 1/4" holes where the slots need to go.
It is possible to hog out a slot strictly with a drill press, but it's best done with a short router bit or endmill. With a drill, it always ends up messy looking.
I'm using a 3/8" straight router bit. I have to route from both sides to make it all the way through.
After putting it together, I leave the frame lying flat on the table, so that I don't accidentally introduce any twist with the clamps.
The pantorouter so far. I'm keen to try it out, and I really need something to clamp the followers to do a good job of that, so that's next
The follower clamp is a small block of wood that clamps to the operating lever. I'm using a paper template for the shape of it. It needs to be very precisely made, to make sure the follower bearing doesn't mount crooked on the operating lever.
Testing it out, using a multiple-mortise template. I first made this template for some joints for a mirror stand.
I also had a timelapse camera running while I was shooting below.
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