Going through my junk, I found a piece of sheet metal from an old printer that I tore down. This already had some angle bends to it. In a previous build I used the corner of a PC case, but I didn't have an old PC case to cut up.
I cut a strip off it to get it to the right width.
I needed to add one extra fold to it. I did this by clamping it in the vise and using a block of wood and a rubber mallet to add a slight bend against the vise jaws, then moving the piece to the side and continuing the bend, going back and forth until I had a 90° bend along the whole length.
A sheet metal brake would be the right tool for this, but I don't have one.
Cutting up the plywood for the top of the enclosure. I bought some 1/4" (6 mm) Baltic birch plywood for the front of the enclosure. This part will be very visible, so it was worth spending money on good materials.
Some of the pieces need to be ripped lengthwise because parts of the wood attach to the front and parts to the back.
I also cut out an arc shape out of the top of the enclosure to give the top wheel a bit more room. That way, the enclosure doesn't need to come up as high.
The cover gets in the way to some extent, but also helps to hold the blade in place while I put it on the wheels.
I needed to screw the top cover onto the post, but I didn't want to screw it straight on from the front because then the screws holes would get covered by the piano hinge. So I drilled in at an angle, using a sacrificial piece clamped to the side to help start the hole. So basically, part of the top cover is held on with pocket holes.
On my 16" bandsaw the top cover comes off by sliding it up, but with the low basement ceiling height, there really isn't much room above the saw in my shop.
After screwing it onto the clamp, I pressed the top cover closed and used an awl to mark where the screw in the cover needed to go.
It has an odd-shaped notch cut out of the top right corner to clear the trunnions as it's opened and closed.
I held it in place to measure how far down it comes on the front cover.
While waiting for the glue to dry, I added a cover for behind the lower wheel. I glued a strip of wood to the leg under the trunnions to have a space to screw it on. I may change the design of the frame in the plans a little so this part might screw on from the front in the plans.
I added a brace for the table to this cover. The cover only fits on while the table is level, so I figure I might as well add support to help hold the table level against heavy loads.
The cover and brace needs to come off when tilting the table, but it's fairly rare that I do bevelled cuts. And with the brace normally in place, the table won't tilt unexpectedly even if I don't sufficiently tighten the trunnion screws.
I glued another piece just under this brace to give it support. It was a bit awkward clamping this on (removing the lower wheel would have made room for the clamp, but that would have been more work).
And speaking of heavy loads, time to do some cutting. Here's a 8" (20 cm) diameter piece of log that I got from John Heisz from this tree.
After making a flat spot on the bottom with the jointer, I flattened one side just freehand.
The fence I'm using here is just clamped to the table. I have used this fence on every one of my other bandsaws at various times (it's the only resaw fence I ever use, here, here and here). So there are advantages to not building a dedicated resaw fence.
I was running into a fair bit of chatter. This is probably because I'm running the bandsaw far slower than one normally would run with a sawmill blade. The wheels are running at 213 RPM idling. With 20" (50 cm) diameter, wheels, that works out to about 1100 feet per minute or about 330 meters per minute. Sawmills normally run at least three times as fast. But it was still faster and more accurate than using a chainsaw.
When cutting out shapes with a 1/4" wide blade, the low power and slow speed are perfectly adequate, but for resawing and sawmilling, it's definitely marginal. But if I can do what I can do with 1/3 hp, then with a sharp blade, 1 hp should be quite enough for most operations.