Motorizing my 26" bandsaw
I made a piece of wood to fit in the middle of my big pulley so I could hold it against the frame and mark how much of a cut-out I had to make for it.
In retrospect, I should have made that drive pulley a bit smaller so I wouldn't have to cut so much of the frame.
On previous bandsaws, I just used one less layer on the bottom front to leave room for the drive pulley, but with 34 mm thick layers on this one, it made more sense to cut away half a layer instead of leaving off a whole layer.
I could have moved the top and bottom wheels forward a bit to have room behind both wheels, but the further the wheels are from the frame, the more twisting force the wheels apply to the frame, which causes more distortion, and also more bending moment on the top wheel mount. So after giving this a lot of thought, I decided that routing out part of the frame was the best way forward, even though it looks like a mistake.
I'm using this old 2/3 hp motor that came from this crummy bandsaw that wasn't worth fixing.
I'm using a piece of anti-static bag as a shim to make sure the pulley will have a tight fit on the shaft. These set screws on the pulleys can't be counted on to not come loose over time. In fact, that bandsaw that this motor came from became unusable because the set screws weren't enough to hold them tight, and the hole in the pulley had worn so large from this that it was no longer usable.
To the right, you can see the mounting bracket being glued up.
These hooks fit around a block to pull on the wires. I wanted those hooks to go through two holes in the block, but forgot to put the wires thru the holes of the block before bending the hook. Rather than straightening and then re-bending the wire, I cut two of the jholes into slots so I could still get the block onto the wires. Then bending over the ends of the wire again.
I used a bicycle brake cable cutter to cut off the coat hanger wire. I much prefer this cutter to bolt cutters for cutting wire coat hangers.
I then put screws in the screw holes, hit them with a hammer to mark the pilot hole location, then drilled pilot holes, then screwed the block down, so that the coat hanger wires pull tight around the motor.
Once I was satisfied it was centered, I screwed it on with 12 #8 screws. The pulley doesn't get that much force on it, but the belt pulls it back and forth all the time. More screws ensure that it doesn't get wiggled loose over time.
Then spinning it up, and cutting some wood.
I have no blade guides yet, but the slot in the piece of wood that I use as
a temporary table helps guide the blade on the bottom.
I used a sharpie to mark my cut all the way around to make sure I'd get it square, then cut from one side, turned the shaft 90 degrees, kept cutting, turned it again, and finished the cut.
Motorizing my 14" bandsaw (2011)