Building the pantorouter pantograph
Although I include printable 1:1 templates in the plans, I figured this time I'd just draw the shape from the drawings on my tablet. This was partially inspired by windows 10 not getting along that well with my printer, and partly to show that you can build the pantorouter even if you don't have a printer.
The most complicated shapes are the router mount, but it really didn't take that long to draw it from dimensions on a piece of plywood. I used an empty yogurt cup to draw the arcs that join the main arc and the straight part of the router mount.
I'm using 18 mm thick baltic birch plywood. This part really needs to be made of plywood, Solid wood is too likely to break across the grain and that could cause the router to jump out of the machine unexpectedly.
I ordered a Hitachi router off of Amazon. I picked this one because it claims to be quieter than others (it is quieter), and it's not too expensive. It has a slightly smaller diameter but still has a 1/2" collet. I was hoping it would be lighter too, but it's quite heavy.
The short and long links are mostly rectangular parts. I figure most people already know how to cut rectangular parts on the table saw, so I didn't take any pictures of that. (If you don't know how to cut rectangular pieces on the table saw, you should not attempt this build.)
I used Mahogany for the long parts of the links. Ideally I'd use something harder, but I think the colour of it will contrast nicely, and also, mahogany is a very stable wood, so fewer changes in shape with humidity changes.
You could also make these parts out of baltic birch plywood.
A word of caution - if the wood has a very pronounced grain pattern, such as oak or ash, and it's at an angle to how you are drilling, especially with a metal (non brad-point) drill bit, the grain can cause the drill to wander along the grain as it drills.
Gluing together the link. I started by gluing one of the mahogany pieces to the plywood that is on the bottom (as viewed in the photo), then let the glue dry for about 20 minutes, then added the 18 mm piece of plywood that goes between the mahogany pieces.
Alignment for this piece is quite critical, so it was good not to have to worry about aligning any of the other pieces while gluing this one on.
I cut the straight part on it with the table saw, then finished the cut and made the angle cut on the bandsaw.
A small drill bit would drift far too much while drilling all the way through this piece of wood, so I marked the hole locations on both sides, then drilled in from either side. I drilled quite a bit past the half-way point for the second hole to get the drill to line up with the first hole.
(As it turned out later, this was not a good idea. The simple clamp that I made for the pantorouter XL is easier to make and works better, and I later re-built it that way.)
Then used this reamer to expand the holes to make an exact fit. This also allowed me to ream them out a bit to get the holes pointing at each other.
Checking it with a dial indicator, it had about 0.020" of rocking back and forth, or about 0.5 mm. More than I would like it to have, but I will leave this one as is and hope the result will be okay.
After gluing the back two layers together, I glued the spacer blocks onto the router mount link (photo at right). After that, I checked how it would line up with the front link, and in the process discovered that I had a hole on one end misplaced by more than half a millimeter!
I didn't want to make that same part again, so I decided to try to ream that hole out a bit towards the side. I drilled a hole in a piece of solid maple, clamped that to the link part so that the hole in the maple was in the right place, then reamed the hole out again. It took a few minutes, but I managed to expand the hole to the side by as much as I needed. I may glue a tiny splint into the rest of the hole later to close up the slack. Another option would have been to glue a plug in the hole and re-drill it.
I rigged up a simple "jig" to help ensure the main router link was aligned properly as I glued it. Just two pieces of wood clamped to the workbench, with stops on one end that are perpendicular to the strip.
The two smaller blocks (at right) needed a bit cut off the corners to not interfere with the links, however.
I eventually got it in place by orienting the shaft vertically, then used another washer to push the washer I needed in place. I then pushed another shorter piece of shaft in from the other end to capture the washer, then pushed the main shaft through all the way, pushing the shorter shaft out in the process.
I then used a small block of wood with a notch cut into it to make sure I was drilling the pilot holes square and also limit how deep I drilled the holes.
There is still some work remaining on the pantograph, but I'll work on the template holder that goes behind the pantograph next.
Next: Template holder
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