The cottage is the one I wrote about
jacking up the foundations of in a previous
article.
The bridge had to be able to support heavy American SUVs driving across, weighing in at well past two tons, so my dad used some large beams, 20x20 cm (8"x8"), with four parallel beams running under the decking for each span.
For the railing, my dad cut down two long and narrow poplar trees. We knew that poplar wouldn't last that long exposed to the elements, but there weren't any more suitable trees that long and straight. I guess they lasted for a while. The photo at left was taken in 1992, so eight years after construction, they were still ok.
In the background of this photo: cottage #2.
This strategy, it turned out, had very limited success. And with the waterlogged ground from the creek, the foundations shifted a lot. What kept the bridge usable over the years is that my dad propped up and moved the supports after every winter to keep the bridge reasonably straight.
The photo at left was taken in 2000. By that time, my dad had replaced the railings,
as the original poplar railings had become too rotten. The rest of the bridge, mostly
made of cedar, was still solid.
And so the bridge had developed a very serious kink to it, and the wood looked fairly rotten too. We figured we'd have to tear the bridge down. I had some ideas for how a simpler, shorter unsupported walking bridge could be constructed across the creek, but stairs would be needed to get down to the level of the creek, so it wouldn't be possible to drive the mower across it.
But having for the most part given up on the bridge, that does give one a bit of a "nothing to lose" attitude towards bodging it to maybe last a few more years.
It was also at this time, in 2011, that three cousins were visiting from Germany.
Two of them happen to be of the profession of "zimmerman", or timber framers.
So working with beams was totally in their element.
The post just sits in muck that goes quite a ways down. So by collectively jumping on that spot on the bridge, we were able to drive it a considerable distance back into the ground. We then propped up that side of the bridge a little, and cut another 10 cm off the top of the post to get it level again.
After that exercise, the bridge also had a bit of a sideways kink to it, but we straightened
that out by winching it against a tree.
The ground consists of 100% muck that goes much deeper than we cared to dig. Pilings driven deep into the ground would probably be the only solid way of getting a footing, but that old bridge doesn't justify the expense of bringing in heavy equipment to work on it.
Even originally, the bridge was built by hand. The only machines that were used
were a chainsaw, drill, circular saw, and a small cement mixer.
To my European readers: The red oak, so common in Canada, is a different species from the "white oak" common in Europe. Red oak is less rot resistant than white oak, though still better than maple or birch. Also, what we call "cedar", or "white cedar" here is not technically cedar at all, but known as tuja by Europeans. Western red cedar is another different species from the "white cedar" that grows in Ontario.
But the white cedar beams supporting bridge were all still quite solid, which is quite
impressive after 26 years exposed to the elements, under a bridge and over a creek.
Thanks mom!
Update 2015:
By 2015, four years on, the bridge had again shifted too much to drive even a lawn
mower across it. But mom managed to get the old power line poles when they
were replaced. Two of these formed the basis of a new bridge, built mostly
by visiting friends. One of them was Kurt, who's
woodworking machines I wrote about before. I wasn't at the camp for this
as my wife had just given birth, so
there's just pictures that my brother took, no video.
More home improvement projects on my Woodworking website