Plunge lever and plunge stops
I cut the bridle joint as far as I could on the table saw without over cutting, then finished squaring up the cuts on the bandsaw. The tenon jig would have worked better, but it wasn't worth setting up for just one joint.
Drilling the hole for the pin. I put a spacer in the slot to keep the drill from chipping out in the slot. If I thought of drilling this hole before I cut the slot, I wouldn't have needed this spacer.
I used a knock-down fastener type screw for the pin. It has a long enough smooth shank for my purposes, and, cut to the right length, there is just a bit of thread left to engage one side of the plunge lever.
I cut it off with an angle grinder. A hacksaw would work too, but an angle grinder is more fun.
The wood screw is quite hard metal, so a hacksaw would not work very well on it.
And screwing the other end of the link to the table. I positioned it so that when the router collet touches the table, the plunge lever tilts forward but doesn't interfere with the motion of the operator handle on the pantograph.
The router really doesn't need to come forward any further than for the collet to nearly touch the table.
Making the plunge stopsPreparing the pieces for the plunge stops. These are all a bunch of rectangular pieces, so I didn't photograph or film cutting those.
The plunge stops are two small bocks that clamp onto a 1/4" (6 mm) shaft, with one end fixed to the plunge sled at left and the other end sliding through a block attached to the table support near the right. The two smaller blocks will clamp onto the shaft to act as stops.
The small blocks get holes for the head of a carriage bolt to be recessed in them (right), and the block that mounts to the table gets a bit cut off each side so that dust is less likely to cause inaccuracies.
Alternatively, you could just use wing nuts.
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