Under-bed drawer on wheels
I have made a few under bed drawers similar to this before, but didn't document it in as much detail.
I planed everything down slightly to remove any old finish and get it to a consistent thickness of 18 mm. As usual, I'm using my small dust collector with the planer.
I usually use box joints for this sort of thing using my screw advance box joint jig, but Kuldeep sent me a dovetail template to go with the metal pantorouter, so I wanted to try that out for an actual project. This template is for 14-degree through-dovetails, with 32 mm dovetail spacing (or about 1 133/512 inches)
I clamped the stock down in the middle with one of my long reach clamps and added a small side-stop to keep the stock from slipping to the side.
The tails are cut with the dovetail bit moving straight up and down, using the vertical slots in the template.
The soft wood was much easier to route than when I tried that same dovetail bit on hard maple!
Interestingly, the wood for sides of the box was stored in my basement, but the front and back were stored in my garage. I put the project aside for two days after cutting the joints, and they already didn't quite match after two days, because the wood from the garage acclimatized to the drier indoor air.
I'm using wheels from some discarded inline roller skates. The bearings in these have an 8mm inner diameter, which fits nicely on a 5/16" (7.94mm) bolt. It does require removing the plastic sleeves or hub these wheels usually have in them though.
The wheels go in the inside corners of the drawers. If the wheels were on the outside, I'd need clearance for them not to get caught on the bed posts. But with the wheels inside, the drawer can be that much bigger.
A wooden "wheel well" keeps the drawer contents from the wheels and supports one end of the bolt that forms the axle.
Before gluing the box together, I also drill the holes for the axle bolt to go through the outside. I start with a 3/4" shallow hole, with a 5/16" through-hole in the middle of that. That way, the bolt head won't stick out the side.
I wipe off excess glue with sawdust. This has the side-benefit of filling any gaps and chipout with glue soaked sawdust, rendering gaps nearly invisible.
I clamp a clamping square to the corner to make sure it stays square as I do the other corners.
I weighed the bottom down with weights and power tools to make sure it was making contact all around, then screwed the lid down for good measure.
If I didn't have my long reach C clamps, I would have glued them on before gluing on the bottom, but by gluing them on last, I can make sure they make a good glue joint with the bottom as well.
I stuck a screwdriver in just partway from the bottom to keep the lower washer from getting pushed aside. Once I had the wheel in there, I poked it all the way through to center the wheels and washers. Then comes the bolt from the top.
The bolt just screws directly into an undersized hole on the other side of the wheel well. I'm using a drill with a nut driver to drive it in.
I drilled four mounting holes in the handle. I also marked the center of the drawer and the handle. Here I line up the center marks and mark the hole positions. I established how far from the edge the holes need to be on the drawer by scoring a line with a marking gauge.
I used a drill guide with my hand drill to make sure the holes are square to the surface.
...yet it rolls very easily, disappearing under the bed with just a light push. This isn't always a good thing. If the floor slopes ever so slightly away from the bed, the drawer will come rolling out all by itself.
a previous Under bed storage drawer build
Under bed drawers
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