Hand sharpening jointer knivesI have in the past tried resharpening jointer knives on a stone by hand, but without much luck. The steel is too hard, and too much material had to be removed for the stone to make much of a difference within a reasonable amount of time spent sharpening.
I found this grinder for cheap at a yard sale, so I decided that I should take another stab at resharpening jointer knives myself.
This time, with a fast running grinder, I had much better luck. The grinder is actually
a wet wheel, but it runs at 1700 rpm. The water pump on it is dead, so I always wet it
with my fingers. It's a very fine grit stone, so it's safe to touch while spinning.
Reducing the angle to cut down on how much metal to grind away
The stone however doesn't remove that much material, so I sharpen the edges to a lesser
angle, which means I only need to remove material near the edge. Of course, eventually
I'd have to cut away from the whole width of the blade, but I only use this technique to
resharpen the blades once or twice between sending them away for resharpening professionally.
That way, the edge does get straightened and cleanded up. My technique doesn't remove
nearly enough material to grind out nicks either. The whole idea is to use this
technique once or twice between getting the blades sharpened professionally.
Checking for straightness
The other thing to check for is to make sure the blade's edge is still straight. Holding it
against something straight and flat, and shining light at it from the back easily reveals
if the blade is not straight. I use a piece of black anodized aluminium that came from some
piece of equipment I disassembled years ago. Aluminium extrusions are in general remarkably
straight, as is cold rolled steel. But a jointer table will certainly do also for checking
straightness. It's just a little less convenient.
The blade shown here has nearly 0.1 mm deviation from straight, or about .004". It came with
my brother's used jointer. I did my best to resharpen it with my procedure for a test, but really,
these blades need professional resharpening. That said, when I put the blades back in,
they worked a lot better than before. But you could still see the effects of nicks in the
blades on the planed wood.
An overly discerning test
And finally, a really tough test of wether your jointer blades are good is to pass a piece of
soft wood over the jointer at a slight angle. That way, any streaks and nicks go at an angle
to the grain, and can be seen more easily. This shot was taken to maximize any look of inconsistency,
with the light straight on. the bright part along the middle of the board is actually the light
reflected on account of the planed surface having a bit of a shine to it. Running my hand
over the board, I could not feel the diagonal streaks, as these are not so much waves in the
surface, as they are changes in glossiness.
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