Building a workbench with lots of drawers
But thinking about it, this workbench I have in the smaller room doesn't really fit that well in the space, but it would be perfect for the big room. So the thing to do is to move this one to the big room and make a new workbench to go here.
All this planing is because the 2x4's aren't entirely flat, straight, smooth or accurate, and this way I get smoot pieces with consistent dimensions.
The joinery on this workbench will be similar to what I did for my dolly movable workbench.
The advantage of this type of construction is that it leaves a maximum sized opening for drawers on the front but it's still very stiff side-to-side.
The top corners are joined with 1/4" box joints using my screw advance box joint jig. This makes for very stiff and sturdy corners.
I still had lots of room above the table saw wile cutting the box joints. In my old basement workshop these pieces would have been 10 cm too long to fit. But in my big garage workshop I had over three meters (10') of headroom above the table saw.
Though the jig could take up to four 2x4s at a time, I only cut two at a time because I only had two workpieces with identical joints. The joint on the other end of the workpieces was the same, but I couldn't clamp both ends of the 2x4 facing down into the jig at the same time!
The way the sides extend down to form legs, I needed a T-joint where the horizontal part meets the rail. So I couldn't use my box joint jig to cut the box joint in the middle of the rail. I used my slot mortiser with a 1/4" bit instead.
I opted for floating tenons instead of using the pantorouter to cut integral tenons. The main motivation was that this way I could make the tenons out of hardwood, which will make them stronger. I didn't want to make the tenons any thicker than 1/2" (12.7 mm) because I didn't want to cut too much away from the legs.
I then cut some pieces of the right size for the floating tenons out of some maple firewood, then rounded the corners with a 1/4" roundover bit, then cut them to length.
I sanded a slight bevel onto the ends of the tenons to make it easier to assemble. That bevel also helps to not scrape the glue out of the joint while gluing them into the ends of the cross pieces (the other end of the tenon will only get screwed in).
The plywood I have is only 4 mm thick. I stacked two 7 1/4" blades. I tried adding dado shims between the blades but it semed to make no difference in how wide they cut. I realized even with the teeth offset, the teeth were still hitting each other and that determined how wide the two stacked blades cut. So I tweaked the spacing by making the tooth alignment of the two blades closer to each other, so that the teeth forced the edges of the blades further apart. More convenient than messing with dado shims!
Gluing together the joints. I had it aligned backwards in this picture. Fortunately I realized my mistake before the glue started to set and I was still able to pull it out. With joints like this, realizing the mistake a minute too late means it won't come out.
The next joint didn't go so well, somehow I wasn't able to get the piece all the way in. I don't know if it's a flaw in how I cut the joint, some debris in the mortise, or just glue setting too quickly. Leaning on it and hammering didn't help. I guess I should have dry fitted before gluing! I had dry fit the whole frame before, but hadn't paid much attention as to whether there was a 1 mm gap in the joint.
If I was making a lot of joints like this, I'd make some sort of press to help me close those joints.
The slow and steady pressure from a clamp is much more effective than a mallet blows for closing these joints.